Varanasi in the Morning

We were up early again today. Kate's alarm failed to go off, so a call from downstairs woke us up and we frantically put on clothes and left.

Our driver brought us to the riverside where we were greeted by a boatman. The morning air was cool and refreshing and the sun was a floating red disk barely above the horizon.

Our trip was short, but we got to see pilgrims bath in the early morning sun. I read in our guidebook that the pilgrims bathe in a circuit of 4 or 5 ghats and end it all by carrying water to the Vishwanath temple. This temple (the one we didn't get to see the day before) is the holiest in the city and houses a phallus that represents the god Shiva. Pilgrims who have completed their journey collect a pail of holy river water and go to the temple where they douse the phallus with it.

Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter even the courtyard of the Temple, but our boat driver took us into a silk shop and up the stirs to the 5th floor where we could see the complex below. Photography of the temple yard was forbidden, so I'll have to rely on memory and description.

The temple was surrounded by a red outer wall and had an outer courtyard on one side. The roof of the inner sanctuary was was shaped like the roof of a steeple and covered in 50 kg of solid gold. There was also a golden trident attached to the roof's side. Although going in would be nice, it was interesting to see the pilgrims shuffle into the temple from a bird's eye view.

Right now, it's just about time to check out of our hotel. We're going to change hotels to get closer to the station for our early morning train to Gaya. There is a silk market that we might visit this afternoon, but other than that and another possible visit to the riverfront tonight, the rest of the day should be low key.